Well, Bodhgaya was wonderful. Serene and relaxing. Not much going on except for lots of monasteries and monks. I could easily picture 2000 years ago a lone monk sitting and meditating under a tree, contemplating the beauties and joys of life. Very nice. There were also a few beggars hassling us which is simply a part of life here. The strangest thing to see is a beggar asking monks for money, and the monks having to refuse. Strange huh...We stayed at an isolated guest house down this 'residential' 'street'. Basically we walked through peoples front yards, tripping over little children, goats, chickens, cows, pigs, (and all of their baby counter parts)all the while children and adults yelling "hallo, hALO, haaloo, halow, halow!!!!". It was great. Very friendly people.
After a gruesome 5 am train ride to Varanasi, and struggling to get an auto rickshaw to take us where we wanted, and winding down alley ways to our recommended guest house, we are now officially in heaven. We are pretty much at an Indian home stay. A family runs the tourist lodge, apart from 2 Barcelonians who arrived this morning we are the only ones there. The first thing we did was get a pot of Masala Chai and go up to the Roof to see the Ganges and the rooftops of the city. After a few minutes we realized we were not alone. Monkeys. At first just three. Two males and one female. It was obvious who was in charge as they struggled over some scraps of food. Then. A few more trickle in from another building. Its ok; they don't look too hostile, keeping at least 5 or 6 yards away. Then, more. Some moms with babies, some children, other males. Then more. Then more. At least two or three dozen monkeys descend from buildings around us and climb all over our roof and other roofs and nearby walls; just climbing and jumping and hanging out. It was insane. So - Many - Monkeys. You could see them some 50 meters away on other buildings, climbing around, hanging, fighting. One major fight happened on a roof nearby. It was like we were in the middle of a turf war. We actually weren't sure if we were going to make it back downstairs alive, but eventually the innkeeper man came up with a big stick and scared them away. This morning we were attacked a few times (just play, but still...) Best to carry a stick around just in case.
Walking along the Ganges by all the Ghats was truly magical. I really did not expect to enjoy it as much as I did. There is a very particular, serene, joyous, feel to the place. We went just before sunset and the air seemed to have a purply-bluish glow. Truly radiant. That might have to do with all the toxic chemicals and dead bodies floating in the water. Yet, it didn't seem disgusting. It didn't smell that bad. Just hundreds of people milling about. Sitting. Just sitting and watching the river. Kids flying Kites from atop a large 19th century building. I mean. This city is one of the oldest cities in the world. Dates back to 1500 BC. I'm not sure how much of it actually remains, but still. Old.
After wandering around more ally ways we stumbled upon the Ghats where they burn dead bodies. We stayed for at least an hour, just watching. There are three tiers of fires burning 24 hours a day. Your caste determines which place you are burned. We could see 9 fires burning (roughly the size of a medium bonfire). That means 9 bodies. It takes about 3 hours for a body to burn. We saw almost every stage of the process among different bodies. A procession of priests/shamans/family members carry the body from the temple down the street chanting and burning incense, sometimes there are drums. (We saw this on our way out) Then, you dip it in the river to cleanse sins, then you take it out and perform some ceremony and place it on all ready hot coals. Then you place the wood on top and light the fire using the flame of another fire. No matches, lighters, any artificial means. Every fire is started by a constantly burning pit. This pit is said to have been started by Shiva 3000 years ago. Pretty cool. I spent awhile just watching it. Anyway, the oldest brother and other family members stand around and throw stuff in. The bodies are wrapped in a sort of foil, but after awhile you can see the feets and the skull and the body crumbling away. I never saw actual flesh melting.. a part of me wanted to, but I think ultimately its better this way. Then after a few hours when it is all burnt they pick out the left over bones and the eldest brother/son throws the remains in the river. Or something to that effect. We were totally mesmerized. About 50 people milling around, weighing wood, transporting wood, tending the fires, 24 hours a day.
So, then we walked around more of the city. There was a kind of protest going on, people chanting and doing call out/return type stuff. We asked around but couldn't figure out what was going on. We eventually found out they were outside the police station. Who knows. We were ready for a riot to break out.
After winding and getting lost down more alley ways we eventually made it back. After about 15 minutes the innkeeper man came up and knocked on our door. "just checking to make sure you are back oK"... "yup, we're back. thanks dad. see you in the morning for breakfast!" Then his brother came with a map of the city and told us about all the sights and places to go. Tonight his wife is going to give me Henna. I mean. Come on. This is great.
Yet - Some of this city is actually worse then Kolkata. More noise, more chaos, fewer signs written in English, more crooks and scam artists with more intricate and clever schemes. Not as many people living on the streets. But then other parts are much much much better. All the mysticism surrounding the river permeates through the entire place. People really love this city and want you to enjoy it. On the train this guy said to me, "please have good feelings about my country. Don't have bad feelings" He could tell I was annoyed with these young dudes sitting next to me, and just made me feel better. After deciding he like me and we were friends, to show he wasn't a creep (or maybe just because) he showed me a picture of his wife. "here is my beautiful wife. We have wonderful love marriage. she is my heart my life my joy".
Ah. These are the moments I live for here. I've only had a few where truly gentle people have just touched me. He was one. The Muslim man who sold me my glasses case was another, as well as the two guys at the foreign train booking office in Kolkata. Just amazing, gentle, funny, caring people. I hope those are the ones I remember, rather then the cheap two timing con artists on the street just trying to make a buck.
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