Durga puja

Hm, where to begin.

A city of 17 million people, crowded, congested, turns into a city of 40 million for the 5 days of durga puja. Walking down Park Street, a street normally covered with people and cars honking honking honking honking, is deserted at 4 pm. once again this city is the queen of paradoxes. more people. less noise. But, if you are at one of the thirty plus parks/areas/alley ways home to a beautiful pandal (temporary structure thing) home to an ornately painted and decorated sculpture of the idols, and if you are at this location after 6 pm, you wont be able to move through the crowds and crowds of people. Everyone goes freakin nuts. The bigger Pujas are at parks and are like mini carnivals. Stands selling food and drinks, there are even carnival rides, the whole deal. There are at least 10 of these big parks throughout the city. Then you turn a corner and a drab alley way has been transformed into a lighted festive scene drawing you in towards their own special pandal. Apparently each district or area is supported by a given organization, some have more money, others don't. Regardless, the pride and joy and love that goes into making each pandal is breathtaking. They call it pandal hopping, going from one to the next, looking at the scene of idols, giving a short prayer. I went Pandal hopping with my Internet buddy Anubhav of Thursday. he took me to the biggest ones in the city that were close by. unfortunately, i forgot my camera because i didn't know that's what we were going to do - however, the big ones all kind of look the same. There are two molds of the idols - well, let me explain about the festival.

This is a meshing together of the many varied stories and takes on the festival i have heard from locals. Durga is the mother goddess. She is married to Shiva. She is the one with 10 hands. She has four children; Lakshmi (Goddess of Wealth), Saraswati (Goddess of Knowledge), Ganesha (God of Prosperity) and Kartikeya. The sculpture has Shiva in the middle, with two children on either side. Shiva rides a lion and is killing a demon. From what i could understand from Anubhav, the demon came up and took over the world, and Shiva was the one who defeated him. Then from Anubhav's cousin - she went on a killing spree and killed everyone and didn't notice who she was killing. At one point trampled on Shiva and killed him (almost killed him?) - when she realizes she is standing on Shiva her tongue sticks out - that's the incarnation of the goddess kali. Kali puja is next month some time.. Anyway, during Durga Puja Shiva comes down to visit us mortals and gives us good luck for four days, then on the 5th day we dump all the idols in the river as she has to return to her husband Shiva. During the first two days a priest/shaman goes around to all the different pandals breathing life into the idols. Anubhav took Kate and I there on Thursday night. It was sooo cool. I have a couple videos that I am trying to upload to youtube so you can see. Mere pictures can't describe the mood of the event. So many people. So much drumming. So much incense. There are groups of drummers all around the city - practically going 24 hours a day. Sometimes the rhythm is a bit off - they're going all day long - but the spirit is always there.

Another thing. This holiday compares to the Christmas of western countries. Universities get the month off. People buy each other gifts. Woman - oh the woman - where beautiful new outfits. A new outfit for each day. Sometimes two. They looked amazing. Some of the jewelry...all to match...wow...

So I only got to see the big Pandals, but these other two girls went on pandal hopping north of the city, and the stories they told. These weren't as big, had less funding, but were more creative. The structures are less traditional, - we saw one shapped like an old Tall Ship! - and the inside decor more orginal. They said one had hundreds of hand crafted birds floating from the ceiling. When you see just a few pictures of these buildings you will see. Everything is made from bambu and cloth - what! - bambu and cloth. man. its cool.

So, Anubhav. My almost travel companion. He is such a sweatheart. He is just a loveable guy who's friends with everyone and is a total law nerd and just hilarious. He took me around to see the pandals on Wednesday, and showed me some amazing traditional Bengali food - simosas with a special bengali touch - fried fish things - mmmmm good. he told me all about the city and the festival and was just truly gracious. Then he invited me and whatever friends wanted to tag along with his friends for the celebration on Thursday - the first official night. His friends were mostly lawyers - his cousin just got her masters in international relations - and were all really nice. They spoke mostly in English which was really great of them. Sometimes they spoke so fast you couldn't understand anyway..So, we hung out at his house awhile, went to see the dancing priest dude, then got egg/chicken rolls. Soooo good. yum. They came from this random alley stand with a menu written with magic marker on cardboard. We never would have known to go there before. it was a lot of fun walking through the city with locals. These were kids our age who grew up here, went off to university around the country and returned home for the holidays. Anyway, later we went back to Anubhav's to hang out. It was so interesting. They were all talking and gossiping about law school kids and what happened one night at the bar - at one point this girl said, "oh, I think we're boring them" but we said "no!, this is hilarious", really, all we had to do was subsitute our own friends names for their's and we were talking about the same people. We are all the same. its truly amazing.

As nice as Anubhav is, i don't think we will end up travelling together. I need to experience this country for the first time. He wants to explore places off the main grid. While at one point in my life that might sound good - not now. Now, I want to go to the tourist places in the south, even if he thinks its a bad idea. i think we both understand that so its cool. He's also one of those people always talking about grand plans and what they're going to do - but the plans change constantly and most of it never gets done. A lot of his e-mails make more sense to me now, the listing of all the random cities, not wanting to book train tickets yet...it will all work out. For a few days I was really nervous about cancelling our plans, to be honest, I'm not sure he ever thought it was going to work out...ah well...it was great having him show us around.

Now - work is off for a few days. The past few days we have busilly been glueing notebooks for the imminent order. Basically I am extra factory help so the girls can go on vacation - but, if I can support this organization that is ok by me. They are trying to expand and are currently working on a water purifaction project...i just have to keep reminding myself...

happy Durga Puja! yay!!